Donal’s aubergine parmigiana is so easy to make and tastes wonderful. It’s simpler than a aubergine baba ganoush and lighter, too.

The tomato sauce can be doubled and frozen for another easy dinner. Although the plump, pear-shaped variety, with its near-black shiny-skinned exterior, is probably the most familiar in Britain, aubergines come in a wide variety of shapes, colours and sizes. Italian cooks enjoy varieties with long fruit and striking lavender and cream streaks. Aubergines can be bought all year round but they are at their best, not to mention cheapest, from July to September. Look for unblemished, firm, lustrous skin with a bright green calyx, or stem.

Home-grown aubergines are available from April to October in the UK. Aubergines store well in the fridge or a cool larder for about four to six days. In the past, many recipes recommended salting aubergines to reduce their bitter flavour. This isn’t really necessary now, although salting does make them absorb less oil when they’re fried.